Wall Panelling Ideas Living Room
hello youtube this is a video i did earlier on how to build a temporary wall or a permanent which is no load bearing this is my outdoor entertaining area which im using as a second lounge room for a tennant we have living with us basically i dont want them in our lounge room
i want them to have their own tv room so they do not bother us too much. this is the frame i built the way i did it i put the bottom plate and the top plate in first, which is the bottom piece of wood and the top piece of wood and i screwed that into where the tiles areat the base but i actually used the grout lines on thetiles
and used masonary anchors so if i ever want to remove the wall i can just knock it down, and pull the screwsout and grout the holes again with the side stud on the bricks i did the same thing, used masonary anchors trying to use the mortar where i could rather than screwing into the brick and ruiningthe brick i put about 4 masonary anchors at that endon the brick wall
and screwed the other side as well to thepiece of steel above the window and then i put the vertical studs in one byone the next thing i did was hang the door i wanted to check everything opened and closed properly, and everything was all plumb andlevel my frame was out slightly at the doorway so i adjusted the stud closest to the doorway which made the door shut perfectly.
i was able to just cut one stud slightly reposition it, check it was plumb / level unless the wall is load bearing little mistakes like this arent really too much of a problem as long as the studs are 450mm apart and plumb i had to custom make the door jamb because i was using double plasterboard sheeting on one side of the wall to help with soundproofing
so a standard thickness door jamb would have been too thin this is the first lot of sheeting there is another lot of sheeting going overthe top of this. you just use stud adhesive to stickit to the frame, ideally inbetween where you will be screwing the gyprock / plasterboard to the pine studs i wasnt being too fussy at this stage, becausethere
was another lot of gyprock / plasterboard to go over the top of this again to help with sound poofing. this is the plastering, this is where it startsto get a bit harder, you have to fill all the cracks above2mm before applying the joining tape there is three types of joining tape you canuse. you can use mesh tape, which is harder to plaster because it is thicker, and may requiremore coats
and there is two types of paper tape you canuse one is self adhesive, and works like a postagestamp you just wet it with water, and it sticksto the surface the other one has to be beeded in to wet plaster,which is more advanced and i wouldnt recommend it for an amateur you are better off using the self adhesivepaper tape which can be ordered online from the unitedstates if you cannot get it in your own country. the trick to get the self adhesive tape towork properly.
is make sure the plaster is completely dryfirst before applying the tape (after 1 coat ofplaster) then drying off the tape before applying plasterover it using a broadknife which is a plasterers tool. i use a quick setting plaster, which setsfairly hard in 20 minutes, and will be completely dryin a few hours. what you will eventually do after you haveplastered the wall 3 coats of plaster, you will block sand thewall using a block sander, with some medium orfine sand paper
dont hand sand the wall, you must use theblock sander for a perfect finish if you hand sand the wall, without using thesanding block and you have light coming across the wall,from a light source, or just the sun you will see all your hand marks that youhave left from hand sanding just like on a vehicle / car if you have everdone any panel beating you must always block sand where possible you then use a sealer undercoat over the topof the newly sanded wall
undercoat the trim and the door as well usingthe same undercoat then use low sheen acrylic house paint onthe wall and either a full gloss paint or a semi glosspaint to the door and trim this is the finished wall i had some lights on the wall i was goingto use but i ended up pulling them off. on the inside edge of the gyprock / plasterboard there is actually a plastic strip that i have put on the edge of the gyprock/ plasterboard
before fixing it to the studs this gives it a nice straight edge you can see the edge here, and how nice itlooks with the plastic strip and also how nice the wall looks after beingsanded using a block there are a number of different ways you cando this. i positioned the top and bottom plate first for the frame, levelled the top plate to thebottom plate using a plum bob. then i added the individual studs and crosssections / noggings in the wall, checking
everything was level as i went put the door jambs on last hang the door first and get somebody to hold it shut and thenhammer the door jamb around the door so that way if it is a little out, it wontlook like it is because the door jamb is now straight withthe door. if cracks are uneven around the door, youcan use a disc sander to even it out. with the gyprock, usually you would sheettop
to bottom, i started about 12 inches fromthe top and worked down, and filled in the top last because i had a slight slope on the roof the paper tape you use, is either plain old bedding tape, or self adhesive tape which is easier, and i recommend you usingthis tape as far as plaster, i use a 20 minute quickset product that i mix myself i can put a coat on, and 5 minutes later putanother coat on
undercoat the whole wall / trim / door using a sealer undercoat of some sort then paint the desired colour i used a plastic strip for the side of thegyprock against the brick wall to make it neat, and i did this on both ends thanks for watching please like and subscribeto my video i will be translating all my videos that ithink are helpful for people that are deaf, and that dont speakenglish.
